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Step 1: Remove the motherboard socket retention mechanism. This must be removed to allow for the Arctic Web's mounting hardware to be installed. Install the size 6-32 stainless steel (or Zinc coated Brass, which ever is shipped) standoffs, black colored hard fiber washers (2 per hole, front and back motherboard, and size 6-32 lock nuts). |
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Step 2: Lay a piece of 1/4" closed cell neoprene over the back area of the CPU socket and cut to fit as shown in picture to the left. (click on picture to enlarge). The neopren should cover beyond the mounting holes. Once the neoprene has been custom fit, glue it to the back of the motherboard as shown to cover the back of the CPU pin area. This area will get sub ambient and collect condensation that will damage the system so it is important that the neoprene makes a good seal to cover and protect this area so that damage does not ocure. The glue used must not conduct any electricity at all. I used an epoxy from a hardware store and used an ohm meter to ensure it was NOT electrically conductive. |
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Step 3: If using an epoxy or other adhesive that requires time to form a bond, apply pressure to the neoprene while it cures by using a flat rigid weight of some sort. Make sure the weight is distributed evenly to all four corners. This is to ensure that the neoprene and glue create a complete seal around the back socket area. Here I've used two books (picture to left). The lower book is a hard back rigid book of about 1,200 pages and the other soft of about 1,700 pages. |
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Step 4: Carefully remove the weights. I came out with a little extra glue around the edges (see picture to the left, click to enlarge). This may or may not happen. The important thing is that, once again, the glue does not conduct electricity and that it has formed a complete seal around the cpu pin area and just beyond as shown.
Step 5: Cut out the two identical socket neoprene peices using the pattern supplied with the installation manual. The cutout pattern is located on page 2 of 2 of the "Intel P4 Socket 775 Installation Instructions" (red and white pattern in the picture to the right, click to enlarge). One is 1/4" and the other 1/8" neoprene. |
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Step 6: Prepare the copper surfaces of the cold plate and hot plate by using a clean rag and 99% pure isopropyl alcohol (picture to left). Allow the surfaces to dry. If the copper is tarnished then it should be cleaned using a copper tarnish remover before cleaning with the alcohol. This is important as the tarnish buildup may add to the thermal resistance of the unit, reducing it's overall performance.
Ensure that no debre, including lint and/or thread from the rag, are left on either surfaces.
Step 7: Install the "Seal Plate" as shown in the picture to the right (left mouse click to enlarge). It will just sit losely for now. |
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Step 8: Apply a 0.003" (inch) thick layer of Arctic Silver Ceramique to the hot side of the T.E.C. module using a razor blade or other appropriate spreading device. If you desire the absolute most performance out of your unit, you can apply the Arctic Silver 5 silver compound to the hot side of the T.E.C. device. But only to the hot side. Silver compounds do not work well at low temperatures like those acheived by the Arctic Web's cold plate area. Using the silver compound on the hot side you might see an additional 5 degrees celsius cooler after a week or two when the silver metal forms it's lattice structure.
For more information about using Arctic Silver Ceramique and other thermal pastes, please visit Arctic Silver's web site here. |
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Step 9: Apply another 0.003" (inch) thick layer of Arctic Silver Ceramique, but this time to the cold side of the T.E.C. module. Be careful when spreading the paste that you do not contaminate it with the oil from your fingers and/or other impurity sources as it may reduce the effectiveness of your cooler.
Step 10: Once this is done you may attach the cold plate via the 4 screws that are size 6-32 unc x 3/4" long Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS). Apply enough torque to secure the cold plate and create a good thermal connection, but be careful not to over torque the cold plate screws. Over torquing the cold plate screws can and most likely WILL crack the Peltier wafer, which may damage it beyond repair.
For more information about using Arctic Silver Ceramique and other thermal pastes, please visit Arctic Silver's web site here. |
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Step 11: Install the 1/2" thick closed cell neoprene gasket around the cold plate. It should seat against the Seal Plate that you previously installed. This gasket may be made up of four 1/8" thick peices instead of one 1/2" thick piece. If this is the case then simply stack them together. A little dab of non-conductive glue or epoxy can help hold them together. |
Step 12: Using your index finger and surgical gloves (or sandwich bag or similar item) pad about 5 grams of di-electric grease into the cpi pin contact area being very careful not to depress, bend and/or otherwise damage the pin mechanisms. The pin mechanisms on the socket 775 are fairly sensitive and easy to damage so be careful. Pack the area surrounding the cpu socket as well. Create a complete seal barrier so that condensation cannot and will not build up within the CPU socket area.
Di-electric grease is important here as it will create a second line of defense to guard the CPU area from condensation droplets should any get thru the cold plate neoprene area. |

Warning: Working with the CPU and other static sensitive devices can damage the device beyond repair if you do not protect these devices against electro-static shock. Such static can build up in your cloths and else where so use a grounding device to discharge yourself before touching sensitive electronics! Also limit touching of these devices to a little as possible!
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Special Note: If you use di-electric grease within the socket area of the motherboard, the system may not boot. The reason for this is that there is a chance that you could create a micro small barrier of grease between the CPU pin pads and the CPU Socket pins. If this should happen then you will need to remove the CPU and gently clear away some of the di-electric grease from the socket and/or CPU pin pads, being careful not to damage the socket pins. Try again until the system operates normally. (Note: this very thing happened during the installation shown here and was quickly remedied via the above outlined process). |
Above is the final cutout pattern for an EVGA 775 Motherboard's CPU socket area. (left mouse click to enlarge). |
Step 13: Using the 1/4" closed cell neoprene peice (also refered to as the "lower neoprene" that you cut out earlier, place it over the socket area and carefully cut out just enough from the pad so that it fits over the CPU socket.
You can get an idea of where you might have to cut by examining the second page of the socket 775 installation instructions. The red regions on this pattern page contain areas that may need to be cut out. Again, cut away just enough so that it fits but not too much. You must leave enough to create an adequate condensation barrier. |
Above is the 1/4" closed cell neoprene fit into the socket area snuggly. (left mouse click to enlarge). Notice the exposed capacitors and such very near to the socket itself! The 1/8" ceiling peice will cap these components off from the air, protecting the socket area from condensation. |

Above is the upper 1/8" closed cell neoprene peice (also refered to as the socket area "upper neoprene"). Notice it is un-cut and remains that way for installation and use. |
Step 14: Now we are going to fit the 1/8" "upper neoprene" peice to the socket area. This is also closed cell type neoprene. For this motherboard and most others (Socket 775 Only), there is no extra cutting necessary for the upper peice. It should remain whole (unlike the lower 1/4" peice which was cut to fit). |
Above, notice the upper neoprene creates a ceiling above the lower peice. This ceiling caps off the socket area from outside air. |
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Step 15: In the picture to the left we show the next step, which is to install the 3" long 6-32 unc 18-8 Stainless Steel threaded studs (left mouse click to enlarge).
Step 16: In the picture to the right we see the next step, which is to dispense a 'BB' sized amount of Arctic Sliver Ceramique to the center of the CPU heat spreader as shown. (Again, left click to enlarge). |
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Step 17 (optional): While this step is optional it is also highly recomended that you install a thermal probe like the one shown to the left. This one is a sub zero reading probe and is mounted just off center of the cold plate area. The readout is important as it informs the user if the system is faulty in any way. It also gives the user insight into the current operation of the peltier device.
Here we use a small amount of non-conductive epoxy to fix the probe to the cold plate. |
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Step 18: Mount the unit ontop of the CPU by sliding the unit down the four 6-32 x 3" threaded studs. Once the unit is in place secure it using the following tension hardware:
- Compression Springs 5 lb Load (qty: 4)
- 6-32 Nylon Washers (qty: 4)
- 6/32 Knurled Brass Thumb Nuts (qty: 4)
We have chosen the above hardware for ease of installatio and use. Torque the brass thumb screws until the springs reach full compression. Do not over torque the thumb screws or damage to the CPU, motherboard and/or surrounding equipment may ocure.
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To the left are the readings I got when entering my bios after installation (Click to enlarge). As you can see, the CPU core temperature was around -17C.
And to the right (click to enlarge) you can see the speed I was able to gain from cooling my system with the Arctic Web 437 watt T.E.C. Cooler. It is important to know that results will vary from CPU to CPU, System to System and User to User. You may or may not receive similar results.
Finally, we are finished with this sample guide. I hope that this guide has been helpfull in some way. This guide's purpose is to provide additional information when dealing with a Intel socket 775 installation. |
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